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Bog Garden Bowls

Bog Garden Bowls can be a fascinating and fun addition to any traditional landscape. The carnivorous plants growing in the bog provide endless hours of enjoyment watching them lure, trap and digest flies, spiders, mosquitoes and other insects, some with surprising speed! Sarracenias, Venus Fly Traps and temperate species of Sundew can all be used in the bog gardens and be overwintered outdoors while many tropical Butterworts and Sundews can be grown in them during the summer and then lifted for indoor growing during the cold winter months. Although most species of Sarracenia are native to the Southern US, we have found most all of them are hardy even up in Zone 5 as long as a protective mulch is used. They are easy to set up by following the simple steps outlined below.

Step 1) Select an undrained, plastic bowl shaped planter with a minimum diameter of 12". A container that has a removable plug is ideal as it allows the bowl to be leached occasionally to avoid salt buildup.

Step 2) Fill the bowl up to a level one inch below the rim with either straight peat moss or a mixture of 3 parts peat to one part sand. Pre-moisten the peat before filling the bowl if it is dry. The peat level should be slightly 'hilled' up in the center to allow for a more drained area for plants like Venus Fly Traps that don't like to have their crowns (growing point) too close to the water level.

Step 3) Remove the plants from their pots and plant them directly into the peat keeping the crowns at or slightly above the peat moss. A 12" bowl will hold 3-5 assorted Sarracenia and Venus Fly Traps for a few years before needing to be repotted.

Step 4) Apply an approx. ž" layer of moist Sphagnum Moss across the surface of the peat. Carefully tuck it around the base of each of the plants. This will help the peat from splashing up onto the plants during rain or when being watered.

Step 5) Using either rainwater or bottled water, water the bowl until the substrate is thoroughly saturated and a small amount of water can be seen around the perimeter of the bowl at or above the moss. If your tap water does not contain a large amount of minerals (less than 100 ppm) or chemicals you can also use that.

That's it! Although they are not difficult to care for there are several conditions that must be provided to ensure that they thrive.

First, the bog should be placed where it will receive at least 4-5 hours of direct sun a day and a full day would be even better. This allows them to grow normally and also brings out the deepest colors in the traps and leaves. It is normal for some plants to experience 'leaf burn' when moved to a new location and does no real harm. This will appear as brown or white papery blotches. Once they get accustomed to their new place they will send up new, brighter leaves/traps. The bogs can also be buried in the ground up to their rims if desired. This creates a more natural look and also adds to the winter hardiness.

Second, the bog should always be kept waterlogged. Rainwater is best as it contains no chemicals or minerals that can damage the plants, however if your tap water does not contain a large amount of minerals it can be used also. When watering the bog, be sure to sprinkle some water into any Pitcher Plant traps that have become dry. Those species with traps that are open on top rely on rain to help keep them filled while those with curved hoods maintain their fluid level on their own.

It is also important to never fertilize the bog. As long as it is kept outside, the plants will be able to trap enough insects to feed themselves. It is also best to not feed the plants anything that they have not trapped themselves. Feeding too large of prey can rot the traps. The plants have built in mechanisms to avoid this in the wild.

Normally it is unnecessary to repot the plants unless they are starting to crowd each other after a few years. Then, it is important to only use peat moss as a soil. Never mix compost, garden soil or potting soil with the peat moss as this will not provide the proper acidity the plants require. It is also beneficial to remove any dead traps/leaves as the plants grow through the summer.

Every couple months it is beneficial to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the bowl and water the bog thoroughly to leach out any accumulated salts or minerals. Repeatedly flood the bowl several times and allow it to drain, then replace the plug.

As fall approaches the plants will begin to enter dormancy. Some species will start losing leaves/traps while others seem to not change at all other than stopping growth. At this point, remove any dead leaves/traps to avoid hiding places for insects and disease.

As freezing temperatures begin apply a mulch of straw or leaves if there is no snow cover. The goal is to avoid alternate freezing and thawing and exposure to temperatures in the teens and lower. Once the bowls are frozen solid they should remain so until apring. The plants should be hardy as long as they do not experience any severe weather with no protective mulch. Even with temperatures below zero, the plants will be fine as long as they are mulched. Alternatively, you may wish to overwinter the garden in an unheated basement or garage that has more moderate exposure. Temperatures in the 40's is really all that is needed to provide dormancy. Once the plants have experienced a couple frosts simply move the garden inside and place in a dark, cool area. The plants will remain dormant and will not need any light over the winter. Keep the garden moist, but not wet, until spring when it should be placed outside after the threat of freezing has passed.

When spring arrives remove any mulch that may have been applied over the winter and make sure that the bog is kept moist, but not wet, while it thaws. This is the season the bogs really shine. Incredible flushes of new, larger leaves and traps emerge accompanied by tall flower stems. Some species have the added bonus of fragrant flowers!

As long as the guidelines above a followed you should have a bog garden to enjoy for years to come.