Mystify your friends and neighbors with carnivorous plants this summer! Carnivorous plants are some of the most astonishing of all flora on the planet. They can be found on nearly every continent and have adapted to a wide array of circumstances for survival. Some grow as epiphytes in trees while others grow aquatically beneath the surface of ponds. Some grow in soggy bogs while others are found in near desert conditions. Some go dormant, appearing only during a certain season yet others can grow year round. Some have traps that will trap a mouse while others have such tiny traps, they could barely capture a tiny water flea. Some can tolerate temperatures above 100 degrees while others can tolerate 20 below zero. All of these adaptations have allowed these plants to colonize poor, nutrient deficient soils that other plants cannot. These plants supplement themselves with nitrogen and mineral rich little packages called insects.

The trapping mechanisms are as creative and varied as the plants themselves. Although many people think that the traps are flowers, this is not true. Most all of the traps used by carnivorous plants are modified leaves carefully and artistically shaped by the hands of time over millions of years. The result is the stunning, yet lethal, forms we see today. Some plants use pitfall type pitchers containing liquid to drown their prey. Although they do not move they are no less deadly. Others use a sticky fly-paper method that instantly adheres any insect unfortunate enough to land on the glue covered leaf. And then there is the famous Venus Fly Trap that is quite active in the trapping of its prey. The quick closing of the trap is actually a stunningly fast growth process where each side of the trap instantly grows shut. Others use specially modified roots to take advantage of soil living organisms.

While all of these plants seem exotic and foreign, most people are surprised to learn that some may grow quite close to their own backyard. Carnivorous plants can be found in many parts of the US and are very easy and rewarding to grow in the home garden. It is quite simple to cultivate these captivating plants and witness up close the amazing strategies these plants use to survive.

It's not too late to plant now to enjoy spectacular and unusual summer color! The North American Pitcher Plants are some of the easiest carnivorous plants to grow and provide summer long interest of both color and action. Pitcher plants have two main seasons where they really shine; first in early spring when their beautiful flowers emerge and then in late summer when their spectacular pitchers have matured and fully colored up. It is amazing to sit back and watch as countless flies, bees and yellowjackets are drawn to the pitchers and then lured to their demise on sunny afternoons. Venus Fly Traps, with their quick moving jaws, also add to the drama while taking their share of the feast. The glistening jewel-like sundews are deceptively beautiful. The shimmering drops covering their leaves appear to offer a meal of nectar when, in fact, the liquid is one of the strongest glues in nature. Once an insect lands on the leaf it is stuck fast! The banquet does not stop at the ground level either. Under the substrate another group of carnivores, the bladderworts, assures that soil living organisms are not safe either. The roots of these plants produce tiny bladders that suck in tiny creatures unfortunate enough to pass too close. On the surface all that is visible is tiny leaves and showy flowers. There are still more carnivores that can add variety and color to your garden too.

These plants are easy to grow in any sunny area and require very little maintenance. They do require a wet, acidic substrate in which to grow so ordinary garden soil won't do. Because of this, Bog Garden Bowls are one of the simplest ways to grow them. To make it as easy as possible, you can follow the step by step instructions detailed below. Bog gardens are easy to care for and they make a great summertime project for the whole family!

One of the easiest and most rewarding ways to grow the North American native Carnivorou Plants is to create a Bog Garden Bowl. Bog Garden Bowls can be a fascinating and fun addition to any traditional landscape. The carnivorous plants growing in the bog provide endless hours of enjoyment watching them lure, trap and digest flies, spiders, mosquitoes and other insects, some with surprising speed! Sarracenias, Venus Fly Traps and temperate species of Sundew can all be used in the bog gardens and be overwintered outdoors while many tropical Butterworts and Sundews can be grown in them during the summer and then lifted for indoor growing during the cold winter months. Although most species of Sarracenia are native to the Southern US, we have found most all of them are hardy even up in Zone 5 as long as a protective mulch is used. They are easy to set up by following the simple steps outlined below.

Step 1) Select an undrained, plastic bowl shaped planter with a minimum diameter of 12". A container that has a removable plug is ideal as it allows the bowl to be leached occasionally to avoid salt buildup.

Step 2) Fill the bowl up to a level one inch below the rim with either straight peat moss or a mixture of 3 parts peat to one part sand. Pre-moisten the peat before filling the bowl if it is dry. The peat level should be slightly 'hilled' up in the center to allow for a more drained area for plants like Venus Fly Traps that don't like to have their crowns (growing point) too close to the water level.

Step 3) Remove the plants from their pots and plant them directly into the peat keeping the crowns at or slightly above the peat moss. A 12" bowl will hold 3-5 assorted Sarracenia and Venus Fly Traps for a few years before needing to be repotted.

Step 4) Apply an approx. ¾" layer of moist Sphagnum Moss across the surface of the peat. Carefully tuck it around the base of each of the plants. This will help the peat from splashing up onto the plants during rain or when being watered.

Step 5) Using either rainwater or bottled water, water the bowl until the substrate is thoroughly saturated and a small amount of water can be seen around the perimeter of the bowl at or above the moss. If your tap water does not contain a large amount of minerals (less than 100 ppm) or chemicals you can also use that.

That's it! Although they are not difficult to care for there are several conditions that must be provided to ensure that they thrive.

First, the bog should be placed where it will receive at least 4-5 hours of direct sun a day and a full day would be even better. This allows them to grow normally and also brings out the deepest colors in the traps and leaves. It is normal for some plants to experience 'leaf burn' when moved to a new location and does no real harm. This will appear as brown or white papery blotches. Once they get accustomed to their new place they will send up new, brighter leaves/traps. The bogs can also be buried in the ground up to their rims if desired. This creates a more natural look and also adds to the winter hardiness.

Second, the bog should always be kept waterlogged. Rainwater is best as it contains no chemicals or minerals that can damage the plants, however if your tap water does not contain a large amount of minerals it can be used also. When watering the bog, be sure to sprinkle some water into any Pitcher Plant traps that have become dry. Those species with traps that are open on top rely on rain to help keep them filled while those with curved hoods maintain their fluid level on their own.

It is also important to never fertilize the bog. As long as it is kept outside, the plants will be able to trap enough insects to feed themselves. It is also best to not feed the plants anything that they have not trapped themselves. Feeding too large of prey can rot the traps. The plants have built in mechanisms to avoid this in the wild.

Normally it is unnecessary to repot the plants unless they are starting to crowd each other after a few years. Then, it is important to only use peat moss as a soil. Never mix compost, garden soil or potting soil with the peat moss as this will not provide the proper acidity the plants require. It is also beneficial to remove any dead traps/leaves as the plants grow through the summer.

Every couple months it is beneficial to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the bowl and water the bog thoroughly to leach out any accumulated salts or minerals. Repeatedly flood the bowl several times and allow it to drain, then replace the plug.

As fall approaches the plants will begin to enter dormancy (see below). Some species will start losing leaves/traps while others seem to not change at all other than stopping growth. At this point, remove any dead leaves/traps to avoid hiding places for insects and disease.

As freezing temperatures begin apply a mulch of straw or leaves if there is no snow cover. The goal is to avoid alternate freezing and thawing and exposure to temperatures in the teens and lower. Once the bowls are frozen solid they should remain so until apring. The plants should be hardy as long as they do not experience any severe weather with no protective mulch. Even with temperatures below zero, the plants will be fine as long as they are mulched. Alternatively, you may wish to overwinter the garden in an unheated basement or garage that has more moderate exposure. Temperatures in the 40's is really all that is needed to provide dormancy. Once the plants have experienced a couple frosts simply move the garden inside and place in a dark, cool area. The plants will remain dormant and will not need any light over the winter. Keep the garden moist, but not wet, until spring when it should be placed outside after the threat of freezing has passed.

When spring arrives remove any mulch that may have been applied over the winter and make sure that the bog is kept moist, but not wet, while it thaws. This is the season the bogs really shine. Incredible flushes of new, larger leaves and traps emerge accompanied by tall flower stems. Some species have the added bonus of fragrant flowers!

As long as the guidelines above a followed you should have a bog garden to enjoy for years to come.

Winter Dormancy of Carnivorous Plants

Many species of carnivorous plants require a period of dormancy during the winter months. This allows the plants to rest and generate flower buds for the following season. If the plants are not allowed to rest they generally continue to decline over several months until they simply run out of energy and die. The onset of dormancy is actually triggered more by day length than by temperature. Because of this, some terrarium grown plants may not necessarily know when to go dormant due to the artificial light cycles they are grown under. It would be best to gradually decrease the photoperiod over a period of a few weeks to induce the plants to stop growth and prepare for dormancy.

Signs that plants are ready for dormancy varies among the various species. Sarracenias generally show little more indication than a cessation of growth. Some of the pitchers may start to brown at the tops but this is also a normal occurrence throughout summer. Venus Fly Traps will stop producing new leaves and those that it does have may turn yellow and brown. Temperate sundews generally form tiny winter rosettes of tightly curled leaves. If you are not sure, pulling the plants for winter dormancy by mid to late October should be safe.

Once the plants are ready to be stored for the winter you should allow the pots to drain but not dry out. The growing media should be kept moist at all times. Trim off any dead leaves and generally clean the plants up. They can then be placed into a clear plastic bag, pots and all, and sealed up. The plants do not necessarily need any light while dormant but a clear bag allows for easier monitoring over winter. The bags should then be placed in a cool area, preferably 40-45 degrees for the duration of the dormancy. A cool basement or unheated garage would work well. If such an area is not available, and if the plants are small enough, they can be placed in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator as an alternative. It is important that they be kept cool as if they are maintained too warm the plants will not fully enter dormancy and get the rest they need.

After a rest period of three to five months they can be removed from their storage and gradually introduced to brighter light longer photoperiod and warmth. The plants can then be repotted into fresh media at this time if desired or needed. They then should be kept just moist until signs of new growth are evident at which time they can be returned to their normal growing area and moisture level.